beaching it in nazaré

As a backpacker, sometimes you need a vacation from the vacation.

This may sound ridiculous if you haven’t backpacked.  But trust me – this ‘first world problem’ is real.

After running around Madrid, Barcelona, Toledo, Sintra, and Lisbon, we decided to take a bus from Lisbon and hit the beach at Nazaré, a popular seaside village in the Costa de Prata (Silver Coast).

We had heard that Portugal’s beaches are under-rated.  But we really didn’t expect this kind of beauty.

During the late-September mornings, a cool mist blanketed the coastline.

Sitting with our morning coffees, we watched as the hazy layer slowly lifted to reveal Nazaré’s stunning coastline – the old hilltop village of Sítio dropping off into the sea alongside miles of soft, sandy beach.

Paradise, no?

Hunt down wifi.

Whether you’re staying at an Airbnb or other type of accommodation, Nazaré’s narrow alleyways put a damper on wifi signals.  Even the coffee shops and restaurants which dot the beachfront generally do not provide access to wifi.  When browsing accommodation, scope out places with that blessed wifi!

Find yourself a kitchen.

You may find a vegetarian option on many menus – but sometimes it’s not easily veganized (plus, if your Portuguese isn’t great, good luck).  Use your vegan superpowers to find accommodation that will give you access to a kitchen.  You’ll be able to buy fruit, veggies, rice, pastas, breads, beans, and all of your favourite foods to fuel-up.  You’ll save $$, be able to pack sandwiches and snacks for a long day at the beach, do a load of laundry, and avoid those dreaded episodes of hangry.

My bearded fellow making us some pasta.  We kept dinners simple – lots of sautéd veg with fettuccine, olive oil + garlic.  Tomato, cucumber, avocado, and marinated roasted red pepper sandwiches.  Fresh fruit like oranges, bananas, and mangoes.  Rice crackers and hummus.  And of course, cold cervejas + vinho.   Saúde!

Take the tram upto Sítio for sunset.

A must-do  for breathtaking, romantic views of the coastline.

Eat where the (vegetarian) surfers do.

Professional big wave surfer, Garrett McNamara, helped curate Restaurante A Celeste’s  (steps from the beach) simple yet ever-so-delicious veg menu.  Traditional Portuguese vegetable soup; A juicy, sweet salad of greens, orange, kiwi, grapes, tomato, onion, apple;  Boiled potatoes with olive oil and minced garlic;  Portuguese migas, a crumbled corn meal bread with kale, butter beans, and dried fruit.   Unique, nourishing menu that will make you thankful that McNamara broke the word record for largest wave ever surfed at Nazaré.

After a couple days of much-needed lounging, we were off to Porto for one of my fav activities – wine tasting!