madrid: a vegan walked into a butcher shop

Backpacks in tow, we stepped off the metro at Puerta del Sol, walked up to street level and were immersed in the beauty of Madrid’s historic and enchanting public square  (OMG we’re in Europe).

After a quick snooze at our Airbnb, we ventured out in search of lunch.

And then this happened:

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Puerta del Sol was overtaken by a massive group of bullfighting protestors, waving banners and chanting, “It’s not culture! It’s torture!’   Naturally, Kind Coconut grabbed a flag and joined in for a few minutes.

One of the first things that comes to mind when I think of Spain is bullfighting.  Ironically enough, one of my first sights in Spain was this protest.  It’s so amazing to see momentum building against animal exploitation around the globe – even in countries with deep cultural rituals surrounding animals.

We stopped for some wine and tapas at this sweet little place across from the Royal Palace.  I had some delicious olives, and picked some marinated red peppers and cocktail onions out of a seafood dish we were given (DESPERATE TIMES!)

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We kept on strolling and found the beautiful Mercado de San Miguel.  An absolute must-visit when in Madrid.  We enjoyed plates of oily paella (Paella de Verduras is generally vegetarian/vegan… just make sure they use veg stock) and many copas de vinos.  We had the best time wandering around to all the different stalls, tasting wine as we went.  This is the place to experience Spanish flair and zest for life.  Just imagine Granville Island – but classier, insanely exuberant, infinite wine, and whiney children are kept to a minimum 😉

 

 

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Next day, we grabbed a quick breakfast from a nearby cafe.  They made me a delish veggie sandwich (vegetariano, sin huevos, sin mayonaise, sin queso).   I quickly learned that the Spanish love to soak anything and everything in olive oil.  Just the way I like it.

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Then we were off to do some exploring!DSC_0221.jpg

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Traveling as a vegan can be difficult at times.  There’s no denying that.  Since culture is inseparable from food,  sometimes it isn’t possible for us vegans to experience everything that a specific culture has to offer.  For the Spanish, especially from what I saw in Madrid, ham is life.  You will find Museo del Jamon (ham museums) scattered throughout the city.  For lack of a better description, they’re butcher shops.  But, they’re unique, in that you can stand elbow-to-elbow with the locals, grab a beer and a meaty sandwich on the fly, and get lost in all the boisterousness, if only for a few minutes.

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It’s literally a vegan’s worst nightmare.  The whole room is tinged crimson from hanging carcasses, appendages, heads.

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I dropped into a Museo de Jamon.  Grabbed a beer and a crusty bun, stood elbow-to-elbow with the locals.  And then I ran the hell away… far, far away!

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After a full day of adventuring, I was famished.  Did a little research on my Happy Cow Guide app (have I exclaimed my LOVE for HappyCow enough yet?) and decided to pop into Pura Vida Vegan Bar.

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We received this simple yet flavourful and refreshing tapa of bread topped with marinated cucumber.

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We poured over the menu and first decided on Croquetas de la Mama (spinach, cheese, and vegetable croquettes with a velvety, rich mayo dip).img_7679

I’m still not sure why we didn’t choose a second plate that was more interesting… like vegan morcilla blood sausage or seitan churrasco.  Nope, we chose onion rings (what the?…)  Anyway, they were really tasty.

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Always hungry, I stopped into an Irish bar (again….why? lol) but did manage to find my new favourite alllllllll-vegan Spanish dish:  Patatas Bravas, a big ol’ dish of potatoes and spicy tomato sauce (The rest is history♥)

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A little recap of what I learned while spending 2 days in Madrid…

  •  Tapas are generally not vegan friendly.  However, OLIVES will be your best friend.
  • Breakfast can be tricky in Madrid.  But you can easily accommodate by ordering different sides: fruit, toast with jam, grilled veggies, or a vegetarian sandwich. ***PS: I asked for ‘jam’ and was brought HAM. (OK, in retrospect, this is funny, and I can see where I went wrong).  Opt for ‘marmalade’ instead.
  • Mercado de San Miguel has delicious Paella de Verduras, an abundance of fruit and fresh juices, a large assortment of olives.  And if you look carefully, you will find pastry stands and other gems that have items that are clearly marked as ‘vegano’ (just make sure you get to them before they sell out!).
  • HappyCowGuide app is a must.
  • Patatas Bravas will always be there to save you.
  • And wine.

 

Next stop: Barcelona!

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